Straight Through the Nullarbor

Daily miles: 41.18 | Total miles: 8,708.66

I got up at 5 am this morning, determined to be ready by 6 am. Out here, the sun rises early and sets early, and it still feels like my body hasn’t caught up with Western Time yet. For some strange reason, my cellphone and Garmin watch refuse to change time zones, even though my Garmin inReach already did. Tomorrow, if it still hasn’t switched, I’ll do it manually — the confusion is real.

When I woke up, I felt okay — still a bit weaker than usual, but better than yesterday. Packing took so much focus this morning: 14 liters of water, half a liter of milk, half a liter of banana drink, and food for the next three days (and a little more for later). It felt like a puzzle fitting everything into the buggy just the way I wanted. I didn’t make my exact goal of 6 am, but at 6:07 am I was on the road. The light was already brightening the sky, and the sun was about to rise.

Leaving the roadhouse, I then passed the sign I’d been waiting for — the famous “90 Miles Straight” stretch, the longest straight road in Australia (146 km). I was happy. I made it here. A beautiful day was about to unfold.

Two days ago, I decided this would be a walking day, and I stuck to that plan — no second-guessing. Walking is definitely slower, but I’d calculated that with a 6 am start and only short pit stops, I’d arrive around 4:30 pm. The road felt quieter today — fewer road trains, maybe because it’s Saturday?

The first three hours were a cycle of walking, hydrating, and snacking. I kept a good pace and enjoyed watching the vegetation shift around me — barren land with small bushes stretching to the horizon, then areas with trees, and even a few wildflowers here and there.

And then — snake number two! I forgot to mention the first one earlier this week, on a day when I wasn’t feeling great. I’d been walking along the shoulder, stepping over what I thought was a piece of rubber from a truck tire — until it lifted its head to look at me! It was shiny, a bit purple, and quickly slid away into the field. I even caught myself glancing back every now and then, just to check it wasn’t following me.

Today’s encounter was different. I was absorbed in walking when suddenly a much bigger, brownish snake crossed just in front of the buggy and darted off into the field. This time, I think I even made a sound — I was surprised! But again, it disappeared quickly. I’ve learned they just move away, so I’m not too worried (but still knocking on wood!).

No one stopped all day until around mile 35, when I met Brad, Aron, and Barbara. They asked if I needed water and what I was doing. Aron handed me not only an ice-cold bottle of water but also a piece of vanilla cake. He said he doesn’t give it away easily — but that I definitely needed it more. Aron, if you’re reading this: it was delicious. Thank you for your kindness.

I walked on, hoping to find a good place to camp after 40 miles. And sure enough — just in time — I saw a sign for a parking lot ahead. I reached it right as the sun was setting, pitched my tent, organized my supplies for tomorrow, and had dinner.

Now, I’m writing this while tired but grateful — another day, another milestone on this long road across the Nullarbor. If my connection holds, I’ll upload this tonight.

Take care, Andrea