Back Where It Feels Like Home

Daily miles: 27.19 | Total miles: 14,926.38

I got up just after 6am, had a cold coffee, and got ready. Before leaving the hotel, I looked down toward the ocean and felt grateful. Today, I would go all the way back—and from the start, I liked that thought.

I took a different route out of Foz, bypassing the town and heading straight toward the main road. It was a beautiful May 1st—quiet, still, and perfect for reflection.

The first five miles were uphill, and I found myself sobbing like a baby. It felt completely right. I love those moments sometimes—being alone in nature and letting emotions take over without holding anything back.

Around mile nine, I stopped at the same café as yesterday. I sat with the locals, and although they only spoke Spanish, we somehow managed to communicate. After my first coffee, we were having such a good time that they invited me for another one. I stayed a bit longer than planned and really enjoyed their company before waving goodbye.

I felt good moving today—running, walking, just flowing with the day. Deeply content and happy, even though I was still tired. I enjoyed the views, spoke to every horse, cow, and cat I passed—as I always do—and smiled a lot.

Later, I turned toward Mondoñedo again. Yesterday they were setting up a market—today it was in full swing. A lot of cars lined the roads outside town, and inside there were small stands, food, arts and crafts, even carousels. It felt alive, full of energy, with everyone enjoying themselves.

Of course, I stopped for another coffee in the same place as yesterday. I always enjoy sitting for a moment and observing what’s going on around me. Those simple moments stay with me.

I knew the last stretch would be steep, but I didn’t mind. I just enjoyed the day fully. It was also much warmer than forecasted—sunny and strong—and it felt good.

When I arrived back in Castromaior at the Albergue O Xistral, Jaime was just about to hang up some laundry. I called him from afar and ran into the property where my buggy is parked.

It felt like coming home.

Jaime welcomed me again and gave me the same bed as last time. This place is truly special. I wouldn’t call it warm—the stone walls keep it cool—but with the blankets, the details, and the way everything is arranged, it feels incredibly cozy and homely.

Right now, I’m lying in a quiet corner of the house, surrounded by cushions, looking out toward the living room where the dining table is already beautifully set. In about twelve minutes, dinner will be served.

Jaime puts so much care into this place. You can feel it.

Dinner deserves its own moment. Freshly cooked lentils, potato tortilla, lettuce, and dessert—thank you, Jaime. We sat around the table with people from Spain, the Czech Republic, Poland, Italy, and France, sharing stories and conversations that flowed as easily as the food.

And then, the back door opened, and Manolo walked in. He came because of me. A friend of his in Croatia had met me, and since then he’s been following my journey on Instagram. After having a heart attack, he finds strength in following people who take on long-distance journeys like this. To have someone show up in person and tell me that I inspire him daily—that's nice.

We took some group pictures, laughed, and just enjoyed the moment together.

I can only say—it’s a great place.

Two more days in Spain.

Let’s go, Andrea