Around the Bay

Daily miles: 31.38 miles | Total miles: 12,625.84

I slept sooo well last night. Deep, heavy sleep. And yet — I still feel like I could use more.

I got up, made a hot coffee, and packed. Everything was dry — even my shoes. That alone felt like a small miracle after yesterday. I carried all my things downstairs and organized the buggy while a little grey cat sat right beside my bags, as if supervising the process. I almost wanted to take it with me.

The sky looked promising — no rain in the morning.

Maria, the daughter of George and Vesna, whom I had met the night before, came to say goodbye. It’s always comforting when someone sees you off, when there’s a small moment of care before stepping into the unknown of a long day. Farewell. Goodbye.

I continued along the road that was still under construction — muddy in places from yesterday’s rain — but soon I turned right and climbed a steep hill to avoid the tunnel leading toward Kotor. The ascent was demanding, but the views quickly made up for the effort.

At the top, in Trojica, I stopped hoping for a short espresso. The friendly men standing outside — one of whom had lived in Geneva for a while — instead offered me liquor from a bottle on their table. I smiled and declined, thanking them for the gesture. We chatted for a bit about life up there. One of the men said how utterly different life feels between Geneva and Trojica. I could imagine that. And yet — what a wonderful place this is, tucked into the mountains of Montenegro.

Then came the downhill.

Sweeping views opened up as I descended all the way into Kotor and ran through the old town streets before reaching the water. From there, I followed the shoreline of the stunning Bay of Kotor. There is a ferry that could shorten the route across the bay — but that’s not allowed for me. Step by step means all the way around. By running all the way around the bay, I could see the beautiful Our Lady of the Rocks several times from different angles — a small island church floating between mountains and sea.

And what a privilege that was.

Beautiful waterfront homes. Small towns and villages. Narrow roads with busy traffic. I had to stay cautious with passing trucks and, whenever possible, lift the buggy onto uneven sidewalks that often ended abruptly. Bumpy, broken, imperfect paths — but who cares?

The sun was shining.

After yesterday’s endless rain, today felt like a gift. I could smell spring in the air. I savored every mile.

At one point, a woman called me over. Sia, her friend, and another woman were standing there enjoying the ocean view framed by mountains. Sia and her friend are from China. We had a lovely conversation, sharing smiles and stories against that breathtaking backdrop.

People along the way were friendly. When I commented to one man how beautiful it all was, he replied, “But not for long — only for a little moment,” hinting that the rain might soon return. Some clouds did gather here and there, but today they never delivered.

It remained dry. Bright. Pure joy.

About five miles before reaching my destination, I stopped to buy groceries. When I arrived at the Woodpecker Hostel in Zelenika, Denis greeted me warmly and helped me check in.

Now I have a warm room. I’ve had a hot shower. I’ve eaten noodles for dinner.

I am still tired — but the sun today felt unbelievably good.

Thanks for checking in, Andrea