Rain, Tunnels, and Sushi Lessons — A Day of Discovery in Japan

Daily miles: 33.32 | Total miles: 9,395.04

My alarm rang just before 6 a.m., and for the first time in a while, I felt like a new person. I still had to pack and organize the buggy, so I didn’t leave the hotel until around 7 a.m. My plan was simple: run about 20 miles to a café on the oceanfront — one I randomly picked by pointing a finger on the map — and then figure out where to stay for the night.

It was already raining lightly when I stepped outside, but I felt excited for a full day of exploration and discovery in Japan. Running through the city felt completely different from the vast, endless landscapes of Western Australia. I think I’m really happy about this change — the new rhythm, the language, the culture, the constant details along the way. Every few meters, there was something new to notice: cars and scooters parked in every imaginable way, tiny gardens, blooming flowers, and neatly arranged trees.

The cycle paths were quite good for running, though I had to stay alert when crossing small side roads where visibility was low. With so many pedestrians, I had to stay fully focused — no tripping, no stumbling. I love that kind of running, when every step requires attention, but it’s also tiring after hours of full concentration. So I enjoyed those rare straight stretches of clear pavement where I could relax my mind a little and just run freely.

Today also turned into what I’ll call my “tunnel day.” Many of the tunnels here have sidewalks for cyclists and pedestrians — perfect for me! When I finally reached the ocean, the rain intensified and the wind hit hard. Every drop stung my face. It was cold, wet, and harsh — but beautiful. These moments remind me of what’s possible when you simply keep moving forward.

The final stretch to the café was steep and winding through narrow roads. At first, I couldn’t even spot it; the building blended naturally into the landscape. But there it was — a cozy wooden café with surfboards outside and plants everywhere. I was soaked to the skin, the buggy too, and freezing by the time I stepped inside. The warmth hit me immediately. I ordered a hot, spicy ginger tea and a slice of chocolate cake — the perfect comfort combo.

I also booked a room for the night and chatted with Jon, the café’s owner, an artist, and a fisherman. We had a great conversation, and before I left, he gave me a gift — some freshly harvested seaweed!

Back on the road, I ran along the ocean in the opposite direction, through more tunnels — including the longest one I’ve ever run through. On a side road, I passed a boy holding an umbrella (and by the way, nearly everyone today had one!). There was a red light ahead, but no traffic in sight. I was tempted to go, but the boy called out — I think warning me to stop. So I did. We stood side by side, and he kept talking to me in Japanese. When the light turned green, I said “bye bye” and ran on, but he started running too! We laughed, took a picture together, and shared a sweet, spontaneous moment.

By the time I reached my hotel in Kamakura around 5 p.m., I was drenched and chilled. The person at reception spoke little English, so checking in took a bit of patience. I hurried upstairs with all my gear, started the heater, and spread everything out to dry.

Then came a wonderful surprise — Masahiro, a friend I met in Argentina just before crossing the Andes, was waiting for me! We went out to find dinner together. When he realized I was vegetarian, he smiled and said it might be tricky, but I told him I’m easy. We ended up in a sushi bar — my first ever.

He thought there might not be vegetarian options, but we decided to try anyway. And I’m so glad we did! We ordered green tea and picked sushi one by one using a small tablet. He showed me the customs — what to dip in soy sauce, what not to, and when to use your hands instead of chopsticks. It was such a fun experience, and yes, he complimented me on my chopstick skills, even though I’ve hardly ever used them. I was surprised too by how well it went!

After a long, cold, and rainy day, sharing this meal and conversation was the perfect ending.

Now I’m sitting on my futon, ready for a hot shower and a deep sleep. My mind is full of images — tunnels, rain, laughter, ocean waves, seaweed, sushi, and kind faces.

What a great day of discovery.

See you tomorrow, Andrea