Stormy Mornings and Street Concerts: Running 39 Miles to La Paz

Sometimes, the universe seems determined to test your resolve. Today was one of those days.

I had planned to get up at 4 a.m. and start running by 5 to take advantage of the cool morning air. Instead, I was jolted awake before 4 by rolling thunder, flashing lightning, and pouring rain pounding against my tent. The storm was so intense it felt like nature was staging its own symphony around me.

The rain eased slightly by 5, and I dragged myself out of the tent, carrying everything to a nearby shelter. While the tent was soaked, most of my gear stayed mercifully dry. I organized, packed up, and got started just after 6. It was still cool, and though I wasn’t thrilled to run today, I figured as long as I kept moving, I’d warm up.

The fresh air was invigorating as I made my way back to Ruta 7. The first stretch was a long downhill, and I let the momentum carry me forward, knowing the second half would bring the uphill grind.

Around mile 12, I stopped at a gas station for a quick bathroom break. Shortly after, I passed through Desaguadero, where several roadside stands were selling food and drinks. One of those stands belonged to Hector and his family, who invited me for coffee. Their kindness gave me the energy to press on.

The day was a mix of challenges and unexpected gifts. The wind was cool for the first time since I’ve been in Argentina—what a relief! During the uphill stretches, I tried to view them as training for the mountains ahead. A quick break under a tree seemed like a good idea until I was swarmed by mosquitoes, cutting it short.

By noon, the sun returned in full force, and I still had 13 miles to go. It became a mental game: one step at a time, keep moving steadily. Six miles from La Paz, I met a young man standing beside a truck who struck up a conversation. Turns out he and his two brothers are musicians, traveling with their parents to competitions. They treated me to a street concert—not on a sidewalk, but literally on the side of the road! It was such a joyful moment that I almost forgot about the miles ahead.

The final stretch was grueling. The heat bore down relentlessly, and every step felt heavy. Two miles from the city, a car slowed down, and the driver handed me an ice-cold bottle of water. It was like a miracle.

I finally ran into La Paz and through the city to my hotel. While the advertised Wi-Fi isn’t working, I’m just grateful for a roof over my head and a place to rest after this long day.

Today brought coffee, music, and ice water—small but powerful reminders of the kindness and beauty of humanity. Thank you, Argentina, for these moments. I’m exhausted but at peace, fittingly, in La Paz.

Good night.