Fossils, Clouds, and Quiet Places

Daily miles: 42.52 | Total miles: 8,543.38

My alarm rang early — I can’t even remember exactly when. I made a hot coffee, started packing, and, as always, there was so much to think about. Even though I have good systems in place, the packing, preparing, and organizing still takes up a big chunk of time. But it’s worth it. Once I’m on the road, I don’t want to waste mental energy being annoyed about something that isn’t where it should be.

By around 6:30 am I was ready to leave. I stopped by the shop for one last litre of water and some cookies — important fuel for the next 72 miles (114 km) across the Nullarbor. These days I carry four litres of water for each day of running, plus, if possible, an extra litre of milk. Today I set out with a full nine litres in the buggy.

The sky was overcast when I left, the forecast even mentioned a chance of rain. The roadhouse departure felt almost cinematic: road trains rumbling past, dust rising, clouds hanging low, and the sun slowly trying to push through — its beams shining down on the long road ahead. Before me was the sign to Madura. And off I went.

After a few hours, the sky cleared, the sun came out stronger, and it became warm and beautiful. My head was still full of slime, my nose clogged, and I had an occasional productive cough, but I took it slow and steady to keep my body as relaxed as possible.

At around mile 28, Kamal pulled over to ask about my run. I love when people stop to ask questions and share a moment. He generously gave me water and — to my delight — Danish Butter Cookies in that iconic round metal tin. They became my dessert with milk that evening.

I kept running easy and steady until I came across a road train parked on the shoulder. The driver, Gary, was checking his trailers. He asked why on earth I was running across the Nullarbor, and when I told him I love running, he looked at me as if that was the strangest thing he’d heard all week! He said he’d stop for another chat on his way back — I hope he does.

At mile 39, I spotted a sign for a parking area just three miles ahead — perfect. It turned out to be a spot set back from the highway, which means a much quieter night. After 40+ miles of running, pitching the tent feels both exhausting and exhilarating. It’s my little ritual: claim my space, clean up, eat, and transform the tent into a cozy, intimate haven where I can rest and prepare for the next day.

Tonight I even managed to heat my milk — not with a stove, but simply from the heat of the day. I prepared a warm protein shake before going into the tent. Psychologically, it feels like my body can go into repair mode after getting some protein right after the run. But it is a lot of work when I have to do everything on my own.

Before I wrap up for the night, I have to share this: today I saw countless shells and fossils scattered along the roadside. It’s incredible to think this entire region was once under water. How wild is that? Time feels so different out here — I could have stopped ten thousand times to admire the fossilised shells turned into beautifully shaped stones.

Sometimes I think, in my next life, I want to be a geologist — just to understand a fraction of the secrets that nature holds.

And with that, I’m closing the laptop, brushing my teeth, and getting ready to sleep like a baby. Tomorrow, we do it all again. Thanks for checking in.