Café Nullarbor and Finding My Rhythm

Daily Miles: 31.88 | Total Miles: 8,282.59

My alarm rang at 6am, and I woke up to a little chaos — clothes and gear spread out everywhere from drying overnight. Packing up took a while, but by just after 7am I was ready to go.

Before leaving, I stopped at the shop because Ram had promised me a coffee after I jokingly asked yesterday if breakfast was included. True to his word, he made me a perfect cappuccino. Ram is such a kind soul — we had a little morning chat before I headed back onto the highway.

The first miles felt great. I started slowly, enjoying the open landscape and the quiet beauty around me. The forecast said no rain and warmer days ahead — just the way I like it. Yesterday, I underestimated the sun, so today I was more careful: sunscreen, sunglasses halfway through, and plenty of water. My eyes can get very red and sore if I forget my shades, and hydration is another thing I need to stay on top of out here. There’s a lot to think about each day, but I try to adjust as soon as I notice something is off.

A couple of miles in, Sam stopped to ask about my run. He was at work but took a moment to chat, which really lifted my spirits. A little later, the road narrowed with no shoulder, forcing me to step off the asphalt for passing cars, caravans, and road trains. Not long after that, Steve stopped his truck, handed me a handful of coins and a $5 note, and told me he wanted to donate. He shared a few stories about his life on the road — not always easy, but full of grit.

The most memorable part of the day came just under three miles from Yalata. A car with a “D” sticker pulled over, and a smiling German woman named Wilma got out and asked, “Do you have time for a coffee?” How could I say no?

She opened her trunk and revealed what I now call Café Nullarbor — a perfect little coffee setup. She boiled water, offered me a choice of coffee, and we sat on the fender of her car talking in High German (which sounded funny to me after so long without speaking it!). The sun was shining, trucks rolled past, and it was such a beautiful, unexpected moment. Thank you, Wilma, for the coffee, water, and great conversation.

I walked most of the last uphill stretch with a smile on my face, music in my ears, whistling loudly. At the roadhouse, I even got a discount on my room (thank you again!). For the first time today, I also had a few conversations with members of the Yalata Aboriginal community who had come to the roadhouse for food and drinks — only brief connections.

Later, I treated myself to a pizza. It was good, but definitely saltier than what I usually eat. Since I rarely eat out, this whole Nullarbor roadhouse experience feels like a little culinary adventure of its own.

Now it’s time to shower and sleep. I love this warm, even hot weather — it feels exactly right out here.

Thanks for checking in. Tomorrow, we do it all again.