Penong and Beyond
Daily Miles: 29.46 | Total Miles: 8,220.61
My alarm rang at 6am, but I was still tired and could hear the drizzle outside. During the night it had rained quite a bit, and around 2am I found myself lying awake, hoping my tent would hold up. Thankfully, it did — only a few drops made their way inside. I love this tent. The few leaks only happen when the outer layer touches the inner, and even then it’s manageable.
Still, I stayed awake for a while thinking through scenarios — what if the rain got worse? What would I do? So when morning came, I knew packing up would take some extra care since everything was wet. At least the temperature was mild: cool but not cold.
When I unzipped the tent, I was greeted by a stunning sunrise. The first rays instantly warmed me, which felt like a small blessing. I started walking at around 7:40am, mixing in some easy running and feeling surprisingly good despite the wet night.
About two hours later, I reached Penong — the last town with a grocery store for the next 1,000 km. My top priority was to dry out my tent, knowing I’d be sleeping in it again tonight. On the way, I passed the famous “Penong Pan Tree” — a quirky little sight along this stretch.
Once in town, I found a patch of grass, spread out my camping gear, and even held the flysheet up to the wind like a kite — it dried within 15 minutes! Just as I finished, the sky opened up and rain poured down. I was so lucky to have been inside the store by then, tent dry and safe.
Inside, I treated myself to chocolate milk and banana bread, followed by a cappuccino and toast with butter and jam — brunch of champions! Then I slowly walked the aisles of the store, asking myself what else I might need. People warn that supplies will be limited ahead, but I figure I’ll be fine. When I’m hungry, I’ll simply buy whatever is available — no matter the price.
I chatted with quite a few locals and travelers before finally heading out after noon. The sky looked grey and a bit ominous, but my spirits were high. I celebrated leaving Penong with a little happy dance — the sun was shining, I felt both excited and afraid, and it felt wonderful.
Not long after, I met Tom, a cyclist from Melbourne, and soon after Jeff, his friend. Tom even turned back so we could take a picture together. I haven’t had company on the road for a while, and I loved our short time together.
A bit later, I came across a little roadside memorial for a cyclist named Ned. It made me pause — to think about how fleeting life is, and how we leave traces of ourselves behind in different ways.
The afternoon was beautiful — a mix of sun and clouds, rainbows appearing here and there, and finally, in the last few miles, a light drizzle. As the sky darkened, I found a nice cluster of bushes around mile 29, providing wind shelter and a good spot to hide from the highway. I pitched my tent just in time before it started drizzling again.
No signal here tonight, but I feel calm and safe. I had my usual dinner, tucked myself into my sleeping bag, and am ready for an early night.
The Nullarbor adventure has only just begun, and I already love it — even with all the unknowns. In fact, because of the unknowns.
Thanks for following along. Good night. Andrea